Q & A with Wake Up with Make Up


How would you explain what permanent makeup is?
Permanent make up is an alternative solution to applying topical make up. Coloured pigments (not inks) are placed in the skin (brows, eyeliner and lips are most common) using a machine or hand tool to enhance your natural features while being convenient at the same time. The work is subjected to fading over time due to sun exposure, medical conditions, skin care etc, however it is still deemed a permanent procedure as the colour fades but the pigment particles remain in the skin.

How has the permanent makeup industry changed over the last 5-10 years?
I have grown up being surrounded by the permanent make up industry, as time goes on, the biggest difference in trend has been the change from pencil thin brows to thick bushy but sculpted brows. The technology is advancing continuously with better machines, hand pieces, smaller needles, more size configurations, hygienic equipment. The biggest change has been the formulation of iron oxide free pigments. As the public has became more aware of permanent make up, everyone wants the best for their face so training and experience has definitely grown in importance when looking for a permanent make up artist.

What are the most common questions you get from people enquiring about permanent makeup?

Why are your prices more expensive/cheaper than other clinics?
Perception of price to the public is very important, however we price are procedures due to our operational costs and also put them in line with the worlds leaders baring in mind New Zealand is a lot smaller. We have a lot of experience, and spend a lot of money travelling overseas to conferences etc, we think our prices are fair and reasonable.

Are the procedures painful?
We use amazing topical anesthetics (no permanent make up artist should be injecting anesthetic unless they have the appropriate qualification), which can numb you extremely well before and during the procedure. It is a high priority of ours to make sure our clients are comfortable. Eyebrow and eyeliner procedures are very comfortable, some people feel no pain for eyebrows at all, eyeliner is more of an anxiety rather than discomfort because we are very protective of our eyes. Lips are a little more sensitive because of the numerous nerve endings.

How long does the procedure last for?
This is individual specific, we can give guidelines but it depends on many factors such as sun exposure, amount of vigorous exercise you undertake, skin care you use and certain medical conditions you may have. Also the darker the pigment selection the longer it will last as well, so someone with dark brown brows will outlast someone will blonde/ ginger brows.

Generally speaking:

Hairstrokes/ Microstroking will last 12-18months +

Powder Brow will last 2-3 years +

Eyeliner will last 2-5 years +

Lip colour will last 2-5 years +

What’s advice would you give to someone considering permanent makeup?
You need to be 100% sure you want the procedures done before you book in, if you are on the fence or interested we happily will have a consultation with you prior to making an appointment. Bare in mind we have a consultation with you regardless, if you just book straight in for the procedure. If you need advice on colour/ shape that is what we are here for and experienced with, this will be discussed in the consultation. You have the final say. We do our absolute best to make sure that you understand the procedure thoroughly including what is happening underneath your skin. You may even like to bring in a photo of the look you are trying to achieve, although this is great, your face morphology is most likely very different to the person in the picture so you may not suit it exactly like the photo. Look at the amount of training someone has and if they belong to any societies. For us we think that this is an industry that you will never stop learning, certifications are very important and for us belonging to prestigious societies such as the SPCP makes us stand out from the crowd.

Who is a good candidate for permanent makeup?
It depends on which procedure a client is having to whether they are a good candidate. Important factors to tell us: If you are pregnant, if you are taking daily blood thinners, if you have a blemish/mole in the area to be treated, if someone has obsessive compulsive disorder- perfection is nearly unobtainable as naturally our faces are not symmetrical- try taking a photo of half your face and mirror the image and you will be surprised how different they are. Everyone has a ‘slow’ and ‘fast side of their face meaning the angle from your forehead to your ears differ on each side of your face.We also need to know if you have had botox in the last 14 days around the procedure area or if you are using lash/brow growth products.

What’s your favorite procedure to do and why?
Kirsty: My favourite procedure to do is the microstroking, upper eyeliner and any lip procedures. Microblading is just such a natural enhancement to someones face, brows can change someones whole look taking years off their face by having brows in the correct placement and proportion. Upper eyeliner is a fun procedure to do as you follow the natural lash line, perfect lines are beautiful to create. Lip procedures are growing in popularity, I enjoy this procedure as it differs from using brown/ black pigments and creates a defined lip.

Michelle: I absolutely love doing advanced work such as intricate designer eyeliners- flicks and wetline procedures. Full lip colour is my favourite procedure, I would be happy to do these all day long using vibrant colours and creating kissable lips.

There are different methods used for permanent makeup procedures, what method is best?
There is no one best method to use- it is all down to the operators experience and skill to how the end result will look. It all depends on the end result you are after. The manual method implants less pigment in the skin where as if you want a more defined precise look then the machine concentrates the area. Which one hurts more… it depends also on the operators topical anesthetic which we have an efficient, effective one.

What is your most memorable procedure?
Tattooing mens eyebrows. A woman’s brows are usually desired to have perfectly groomed arches, not a hair out of place. When designing men’s eyebrows this goes completely out the window. A man in particular a ‘kiwi’ wants his brows done but so that no one notices, which means we have to create big, bushy brows with hairs that are imperfectly places. Men’s brows are also naturally a lot flatter, with little to no arch.